On the island's northwest corner, amid eerie boulders and looming cacti, sits the little Alto Vista Chapel. The wind whistles through the simple mustard-color walls. Along the side of the road back to civilization are miniature crosses depicting the stations of the cross and hand-lettered signs exhorting pray for us sinners and the like -- a simple yet powerful evocation of faith. The chapel dates back to 1750 and has been completely restored. To get here, follow the rough, winding dirt road that loops around the island's northern tip. From the hotel strip, take Palm Beach Road through three intersections and watch for the asphalt road to the left just past the Alto Vista Rum Shop.
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