Above Staniel Cay, near the Exumas' northern end, lies the 176-square-mile Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, which spans 22 mi between Conch Cut and Wax Cay Cut. You must charter a small boat or seaplane to reach the park, which has more than 20 mi of petite cays. Hawksbill Cay and Warderick Wells (both with remains of 18th-century Loyalist settlements) have marked hiking trails, as does Hall's Pond. At Shroud Cay, jump into "Camp Driftwood," where the strong current creates a natural whirlpool that whips you around a rocky outcropping to a powdery beach. Part of the Bahamas National Trust, the park appeals to divers, who appreciate the vast underworld of limestone, reefs, drop-offs, blue holes of freshwater springs, caves, and a multitude of exotic marine life, including one of the Bahamas' most impressive stands of rare pillar coral. Strict laws prohibit fishing and removing coral, plants, or even shells as souvenirs. A list of park rules is available at the headquarters on Warderick Wells.

North of the park is Norman's Cay, an island with 10 mi of rarely trod white beaches, which attracts an occasional yachter. It was once the private domain of Colombian drug smuggler Carlos Lehder. It's now owned by the Bahamian government. Allen's Cays are at the Exumas' northernmost tip and are home to the rare Bahamian iguana.