Bahamas: By Boat & Ferry

• Locations
• Sights & Beaches
• Restaurants
• Hotels
• Entertainment
• Shopping
• Activities
• Travel Tips
• Features

By Boat & Ferry

If you're of an adventurous frame of mind, and have time to spare, you can revert to the mode of transportation that islanders used before the advent of air travel: ferries and the traditional mailboats, which regularly leave Nassau from Potter's Cay, under the Paradise Island bridge. Although fast, modern, air-conditioned boats now make some of the trips, some of the more remote destinations are still served by slow, old-fashioned craft with few amenities. Especially if you choose the mailboat route, you may even find yourself sharing company with goats or chickens, and making your way on deck through piles of lumber and crates of cargo; on these lumbering mailboats, expect to spend 5 to 12 or more hours slowly making your way between island outposts. Don't plan to arrive or depart punctually; the flexible schedules can be thrown off by bad weather. Remember, too, that they operate on Bahamian time, which is a casual, unpredictable measure. The larger ferries now can be booked ahead of time, and even online, but mailboats cannot generally be booked in advance, and services are limited. In Nassau, check details with the dockmaster's office at Potter's Cay. You can purchase tickets from the dockmaster or from the captain or mate just before departure.

From Florida, the Discovery Cruise Line travels to Grand Bahama Island daily with its 1,100-passenger Discovery Sun, complete with swimming pool, casino, live entertainment, disco, and buffets. Passengers can either make it just a day trip, arriving in the Bahamas in the morning and departing that afternoon, or stay on the island for a few days. Round-trip fares start at about $120.

Within the Bahamas, Bahamas Fast Ferry has the most, and most comfortable, options for island-hopping, with air-conditioned boats that offer food and beverages served by cabin attendants. As with most things in the Bahamas, schedules do change rather frequently; if you're planning to ferry back to an island to catch a flight, check and double-check the departure times, and build in extra time in case the weather's bad or the boat inexplicably doesn't make the trip you'd planned on. Ferries serve most of the major tourist destinations from Nassau, including Spanish Wells, Governor's Harbour, Harbour Island, Abaco, Exuma, and Andros. The high-speed ferry that runs between Nassau and Spanish Wells, Governor's Harbour, and Harbour Island costs $110 one-way, and takes about two hours each way.

Local ferries in the Out Islands transport islanders and visitors from the main island to smaller cays. Usually, these ferries make several round-trips daily, and keep a more punctual schedule than the longer-haul ferry. The Out Island ferry captains keep in close touch with the airports, so, for instance, if your flight is delayed, the last ferry of the day might wait around a while for stragglers. (Or, it might not. Check with your hotel or rental villa to see what types of alternate transportation they can arrange in case you miss the day's last ferry.) From the ferry docks, if you've missed the boat, so to speak, you can sometimes catch a ride to outlying cays with locals, but if you do, always offer to chip in for gas, which is expensive in the Bahamas.

If you're setting sail yourself, note that cruising boats must clear customs at the nearest port of entry before beginning any diving or fishing. The fee is $150 for boats 35 feet and under and $300 for boats 36 feet and longer, which includes fishing permits and departure tax for up to four persons. Each additional person above the age of four will be charged the $15 departure tax. Stays of longer than 12 months must be arranged with Bahamas customs and immigration officials.

Fares & Schedules

Boat & Ferry Information

Bahamas Fast Ferry (242/323-2166. 242/322-8185. www.bahamasferries.com). Discovery Cruise Line (888/213-8253. www.discoverycruise.com). Potter's Cay dockmaster (242/393-1064).