La Esperanza

La Esperanza Review

This seaside cluster of mango-and-teal buildings with magenta accents is run by industrious, affable owners who also rent cars and offer free use of (and sometimes transportation to) their private beach 6 mi (10 km) away on the gentler south shore. The apartments and houses are surrounded by towering shade trees and across the street from the restaurant and rocky beach (No. 1 has the best view). Accommodations are attractive if worn, favoring clashing lemon, burnt orange, and fuchsia fabrics with gaudy, often religious artworks and garage-sale furnishings; the houses include washer/dryers. For years this was one of the few spots where folks could mingle and exchange news over drinks (remember, even TVs were few until the mid-1990s), and the restaurant-bar remains an evergreen favorite. Two of the original founders, Bussy and Velma Dilbert, still run the place and ensure personalized attention (they're always handy with advice and local lore). It's a tranquil spot, at least until weekends, when it's usually party central.