Luca

Luca Review

Owners Paolo Polloni and Andi Marcher spared no expense in realizing their vision of a smart beachfront trattoria that wouldn't be out of place in L.A. Everything was painstakingly handpicked, from the wine "wall" of more than 3,000 bottles from around the globe to the Murano glass fixtures, leather banquettes, and a curving onyx-top bar. Chef Frederico Destro delights in unorthodox pairings, all gorgeously presented. Spicy tuna tartare is served with satiny avocado, crunchy fennel salad and soured tomato coulis. Hudson Valley foie gras knits poached apple with sherry reduction and onion fondue. His homemade pastas shine, and entrées are invariably solid; the standout is whole Mediterranean striped bass baked in salt crust. His wit and whimsy truly inform the desserts, which are more ambitious and intellectual than successful (chocolate-aubergine mousse with strawberry puree or the banana and bacon "affair"), yet stimulate the palate and conversation.