Il Mulino New York

Il Mulino New York Review

You'll want for nothing at the San Juan outpost of the Manhattan restaurant, where a team of tuxedoed waiters effortlessly coordinates your entire meal experience. The dark-wood-paneled walls and heavy velvet drapes are an odd juxtaposition with the tropical climate, but everything about this place is elegant and tasteful. Garlic bread, fried zucchini, and other antipasti arrive moments after you sit down, though you'll want to pace yourself and leave room for the mammoth entrées to come. Standouts include stuffed whole branzino (deboned tableside), linguini with seafood sauce, and veal grilled with sage and garlic. There's no fusion or haute cuisine here, just solid Italian dishes, painstakingly executed. All this perfection comes at a price, though a shot of homemade grappa might help ease the sticker shock.