Side Trips from Antwerp

Side Trips from Antwerp

Lier

The small town of Lier may seem a sleepy riverside settlement, but it has long attracted poets and painters and has even known its moment of glory. It was here in 1496 that Philip the Handsome of Burgundy married Joanna the Mad of Aragon and Castile, daughter of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella of Spain. From that union sprang Emperor Charles V and his brother and successor as Holy Roman Emperor, the equally remarkable Ferdinand I of Austria.

The Sint-Gummaruskerk, where Philip and Joanna were wed, is a product of the De Waghemakere-Keldermans architectural partnership that worked so well in building the cathedral in Antwerp. The church is notable for its stained-glass windows from the 15th and 16th centuries -- those in the choir were the gift of Maximilian of Austria (father of Philip the Handsome), who visited in 1516 and is depicted in one of the windows, along with his wife, Mary of Burgundy.[. Kardinaal Mercierplein, follow Rechtestraat to Kerkstraat. 03/480-0721. Daily 10-noon and 2-5

The Kleine Nete flows straight through the heart of Lier; the Grote Nete and a canal encircle the center. Along the riverside, willows bend over the water. Across the river stands the Zimmertoren, a 14th-century tower renamed for Louis Zimmer, who designed its astronomical clock with 11 faces in 1930. His studio, where 57 dials show the movements of the moon, the tides, the zodiac, and other cosmic phenomena, is inside the tower.[. Zimmerplein 18. 03/491-1395. EUR 2. Apr.-Oct., daily 9-noon and 1:30-6; Nov.-Mar., daily 9-noon and 1:30-5:30

Van Ouytsels Koffiehoekje (Rechtestraat 27. 03/480-2917) still roasts its own coffee. Drop by from 9 to 6 Tuesday through Sunday for the delicious syrup-filled biscuits, Lierse Vlaaikens, which are the local specialty.

The Begijnhof differs from most other beguinages in that its small houses line narrow streets rather than being grouped around a common. A Renaissance portico stands at the entrance, and on it is a statue of St. Begge, who gave his name to this congregation and who probably derived his own from the fact that he was un begue (a stammerer). Beguines were members of ascetic or philanthropic communities of women, not under vows, founded in the Netherlands in the 13th century.[. Begijnhofstraat

Stedelijk Museum, a lovely provincial museum, is home to the extraordinary Vlaamse Gezegdan (Flemish Proverbs), painted in 1607 by Pieter Bruegel the Younger. In it you can find representations of some 85 Flemish proverbs. One such adage warns about the woman who's "carrying water in one hand and fire in the other," meaning someone who's fickle and cannot be trusted. Also on display is Jan Steen's splendid Vechtender Boeren (Squabbling Peasants), as well as works by such artists as Maurice De Vlaminck and Henri De Braekeleer.[. Florent Van Cauwenberghstraat 14. 03/491-1396. Tues.-Sun. 10-noon and 1-5

If the weather's nice, and you fancy sitting down while the sights glide past you, then take a 40-minute cruise on the Nete River in a traditional Flemish fishing boat. Pickup and drop off are at the Sint-Jansbrug bridge, behind the Zimmertoren.[. 03/480-6640. EUR 2.50. May-Sept., Sun. 2-6

Where to Stay & Eat

De Fortuin. At this romantic restaurant and tavern, the tavern is less expensive. Shrimp croquettes are a specialty, and the service is friendly. In summer you can eat on the terrace overlooking the river.[. Felix Timmermansplein 7. 03/480-2951. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon. Oct.-Apr.

Hotel Hof Van Aragon. The oldest hotel in Lier is situated alongside a small canal. The rooms have all been renovated, and are welcoming and comfortable.[. Aragonstraat 6, B2500. 03/491-0800. 03/491-0810. www.hofvanaragon.be. 20 rooms. AE, DC, MC, V

To & From Lier

Lier is a short drive from Antwerp on the N10. From Brussels, take the E19/N14 via Mechelen.

Kalmthout

The Kalmthoutse Heide is a vast heath of pines, sand dunes, and ponds, with flourishing birdlife, crossed by marked paths. The Arboretum contains more than 6,000 trees in a 25-acre park, where you can wander freely across the lawns. It's a peaceful oasis with a varied range of colors every season, the presence of wildflowers providing a special accent.[. Heuvel 2. 03/666-6741. www.arboretumkalmthout.be. EUR 4. Mid-Mar.-mid-Nov., daily 10-5

To & From Kalmthout

Kalmthout is a short ride from Antwerp along the N11/N22 via Kapellen.