Hotels Overview

As the capital of Europe, Brussels attracts a large number of high-powered international visitors -- one in two travelers is here on business -- hence, a disproportionate number of very attractive luxury hotels have been built to accommodate them. Their prices are higher than what most tourists would like to pay, but on weekends and during July and August, when there aren't many business travelers, prices can drop to below EUR 150 for a double room, even in the most upscale hotels. As a rule though, always negotiate a price: the listed rate is rarely applied in practice in the larger hotels.

Happily, new hotels catering to cost-conscious travelers, priced at less than EUR 100 for a double, have also been constructed over the last few years. They may be less ostentatious, but they're squeaky-clean and offer as much attention to your comfort as the palatial hotels. Of the various neighborhoods, the Upper Town has the fewest less-expensive options. Brisk with businesspeople and diplomats, the EU quarter has a number of efficient, good-value hotels that often lie almost empty on weekends, making it possible to grab a deal. The international chains are sprinkled across the city, clustered to its south or near the Gare du Nord, with easy access to the airport.

Small, family-run inns and cutting-edge boutique properties are thin on the ground here. Instead you'll find many belle epoque hotels that were occupied during World War II, abandoned mid-century, and then fought their way back to center stage. These generally have an appealing combination of evocative period architecture or decor and high-tech amenities. In a handful of places, patina or an individual, quirky style provides a change of pace from the glossy international chains.

Service in hotels is sometimes criticized for falling short of what you'd expect in some cosmopolitan cities, with the exception of the most elite hotels. However, if you come with an open mind, a bit of patience, and a smile, you're unlikely to be disappointed.

There's also an accommodations service that arranges overnight stays in private homes: Bed & Brussels (rue Gustave Biot 2, Etterbeek. 02/646-0737. 02/644-0114. www.bnb-brussels.be). Through this company, you can stay with a host family for EUR 40 to EUR 90 a night, including breakfast. You submit your requests and preferences, including the number of people, whether you want a private bathroom, whether you'd prefer a quiet or a busy area, and so on; the company then provides you with a list of available choices. The host families are carefully screened; most have room to spare after children have flown the coop. Not only can you find a low-cost, high-quality place to stay, but you'll have a window into local daily life.