St. John

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St. John Review

Foodies travel the globe for pioneering chef Fergus Henderson's ultra-British nose-to-tail cooking at this no-frills, stark-white converted ham-and-bacon smokehouse near famed Smithfield Market in Clerkenwell. Henderson famously uses all parts of a carcass, and his waste-not, want-not chutzpah is laudable and chimes perfectly with the new age of austerity: one appetizer is pig's skin, and others, like ox heart or pig's ear and calves' brain and chichory, are marginally less extreme. St. John signatures like bone marrow and parsley salad, chitterlings with dandelion, or pheasant and pig's trotter pie appear stark on the plate, but arrive with aplomb. Expect a cracking all-French wine list and finish with apple pie with custard, Eccles cakes and Lancashire cheese, or half a dozen golden Madeleines.