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Only a loony or genius would serve an appetizer of half a plain white Cévennes onion with a few pear shavings and beurre blanc, but, luckily, maverick—and untrained—Swedish chef Mikael Jonsson falls in the latter camp at his spectacular debut in the wilds of Chiswick. A prolific food blogger and frustrated former lawyer, Jonsson's extreme approach to the provenance of his ingredients—often wild, rare, or foraged—means his dishes are some of the most intense, fresh, and unusual around. Watch him in an open kitchen prepare ingredient-driven wonders like wild Dorset sea bass with pickled black radishes and hyssop oil, hand-caught Devon scallops with a vividly stuffed courgette flower, or gloriously marbled 55-day-aged Darragh O'Shea Black Angus beef on the bone. Such is Hedone's global acclaim that tables are snaffled up weeks in advance.
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