For Hyde Park Corner read "hero's corner"; even in the subway, beneath the turmoil of traffic, the Duke of Wellington's heroic exploits are retold in murals. The years of war against the French, and the subsequent final defeat of Napoléon at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815 made Wellington -- Arthur Wellesley -- the greatest soldier and statesman in the land. The house is flanked by imposing statues: opposite is the 1828 Decimus Burton Wellington Arch with the four-horse chariot of peace as its pinnacle (open to the public as an exhibition area and viewing platform). Just behind Wellington Arch, and cast from captured French guns, the legendary Achilles statue points the way with thrusting shield to the ducal mansion from the tip of Hyde Park. Next to Apsley House is the elaborate gateway to the park, designed and built by Burton at the same time as the Wellington Arch.
Once known as No. 1, London, because it was the first and grandest house at the old tollgate from Knightsbridge village, this was long celebrated as the best address in town. Built by Robert Adam and later refaced and extended, this housed the Duke of Wellington from 1817 until his death in 1852. As the Wellington Museum, it has been faithfully restored, complete with Wellesley's uniforms, weapons, a fine collection of paintings, and his porcelain and plate collections acquired as a result of his military successes. His extensive art collection includes Dutch Old Masters, Velázquez, Goya, Rubens, and Correggio. There are portraits of his adversary Napoléon Bonaparte, and a huge, towering statue of a naked Napoléon by Canova in the stairwell. The free audio guide highlights the most noted works and the superb decor. The most stunning is the Waterloo Gallery, where the annual banquet for officers who fought beside Wellington was held. With its heavily sculpted and gilded ceiling, its feast of Old Master paintings on red damask walls, and commanding gray candelabra, it's a veritable orgy of opulence. There are commemorative weekends on either side of Waterloo Day, and the day itself when entry to the house is free, with special events and costumed guides. Telephone or check the Web site for details.
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