Shakespeare Country

Shakespeare Country Travel Guide

You get new insight into William Shakespeare when you visit the stretch of country where he was born and raised. The hills of sculpted farmland may look nothing like the forested countryside of the 16th century, but some sturdy Tudor houses that Shakespeare knew survive to this day. You can walk down streets he might have traveled up and cross streams where, as a child, he might have dangled his feet in the cool water. There's beauty in this -- and also the possibility of tourist overkill. Stratford-upon-Avon, with its carefully preserved Shakespeare sites and the theaters of the famed Royal Shakespeare Company, veers toward becoming "Shakespeare World." Still, it's a fascinating place, and there's much more to see -- castles, churches, and countryside -- in this famously lovely part of Britain.

Warwickshire -- the county of which Stratford is the southern nexus -- is a land of sleepy villages, thatch-roof cottages, and solitary farmhouses. It was the birthplace of the image of England that has been spread around the world by the works of Shakespeare. Driving down its country lanes is one of the best ways of exploring this area. Stop in at Charlecote, a grand Elizabethan manor house, and Baddesley Clinton, a superb example of late-medieval domestic architecture. Other treasure houses are Ragley Hall, Coughton Court, and Broughton Castle, brimming with art and antiques; Compton Verney is a stately home that has been converted to an art gallery. Warwick Castle, a huge fortress, provides a glimpse into the country's turbulent history.

The price you pay for visiting Stratford is being caught among vast crowds of people, especially in peak season when the volume of visitors and the commercialization can be too much. If the hurlyburly overwhelms you, take a hint from the young Shakespeare. He often turned his back on the town and followed the Avon through quiet meadows and peaceful villages. You, too, can wander though a tranquil landscape and spend an afternoon picnicking in peace by a quiet river.