Purnell's

Purnell's Review

Business moguls and sophisticated foodies can be found sampling an aperitif in a comfy armchair before moving to the sleek, slate-floor dining room. This high spot in the business district, in a Victorian terra-cotta and redbrick building, is where chef Glyn Purnell creates his adventurous Modern British fare. Devonshire crab comes with an apple and celeriac purée and smoked paprika honeycomb, while the wreck fish is accompanied by a "risotto" of coconut and cauliflower. Set-price dinners (two courses for £40, three courses for £50) are complemented by an eight-course tasting menu (£80). Lunches (£22 for two courses) are a good value.