Side Trips from Helsinki

Side Trips from Helsinki

Helsinki's outskirts are full of attractions, most of them no more than a half-hour bus or train ride from the city center. From the idyllic former home of Finland's national artist to the utopian garden city of Tapiola in Espoo, options abound.

Gallen-Kallela Estate

Set at the edge of the sea and surrounded by towering, wind-bent pines, the turreted brick-and-stucco Gallen-Kallela Estate was the self-designed studio and home of the Finnish Romantic painter Akseli Gallen-Kallela. Gallen-Kallela (1865-1931) lived in the mansion on and off from its completion in 1913 until his death. Inside, the open rooms of the painter's former work spaces make the perfect exhibition hall for his paintings. Also displayed are some of his posters and sketches of the ceiling murals he made for the Paris Art Exhibition at the turn of the 20th century. To get to the estate, take Tram 4 from in front of the Sokos department store on Mannerheimintie. From the Munkkiniemi stop walk 2 km (1 mi) through Munkinpuisto Park.

Gallen-Kallelantie 27, Tarvaspää. 09/541-3388. www.gallen-kallela.fi. EUR 8. Mid-May-Aug., daily 10-6; Sept.-mid-May, Tues.-Sat. 10-4, Sun. 10-5.

Espoo

Tapiola Garden City, an architectural showpiece in its day, is in the city of Espoo, west of Helsinki. Designed by top Helsinki artists of the 1950s -- Ervi, Blomstedt, and Rewell among them -- the urban landscape of alternating high and low residential buildings, fountains, gardens, and swimming pools blends into the natural surroundings. Guides and sightseeing tours of Tapiola for architecture enthusiasts and professionals are available from Helsinki Expert or the Espoo Convention and Marketing (Keskustorni, 10th fl., 02100, Espoo. 09/8164-7230. 09/8164-7238. www.espootravel.com). The Helsinki Card provides discount fares to Espoo.

Hvitträsk

On the northwest edge of the Espoo area is Hvitträsk, the studio home of architects Herman Gesellius, Armas Lindgren, and Eliel Saarinen. In an idyllic position at the top of a wooded slope, the property dates back to the turn of the 20th century, and is now a charming museum. The whimsical main house reveals the national art nouveau style, with its rustic detail and paintings by Akseli Gallen-Kallela; Saarinen lived here, and his grave is nearby. A café and restaurant are set up in one of the architects' houses. Hvitträsk can be reached in 45 minutes by Bus 166 (last stop) from Helsinki's main bus station, Linja-autoasema, platform 55.

Hvitträskintie 166, Kirkkonummi, Hvitträsk, Luoma. 09/4050-9630. www.nba.fi. EUR 4. Museum Apr.-Oct., daily 11-6; Nov.-Mar., Tues.-Sun. 11-5.

Ainola

The former home of Finland's most famous son, composer Jean Sibelius, was designed by Lars Sonck in 1904 and takes its name from his wife, Aino. From late spring through summer, the intimate wooden house set in secluded woodland is open to the public as a museum. Take a bus from the Helsinki Linja-autoasema (bus station) or a local train first to the town of Järvenpää; Ainola is 2 km (1 mi) farther by bus or taxi.

Ainolantie, 04400, Järvenpää. 09/287-322. www.ainola.fi. EUR 5. Early May-Sept., Tues.-Sun. 10-5.

Porvoo

Porvoo is a living record of the past, with its old stone streets and painted wooden houses lining the riverbank. Artisan boutiques around the old Town Hall Square invite exploration. Take a stroll into the Old Quarter to see the multicolor wooden houses. Visit the 15th-century stone-and-wood cathedral, Porvoon Tuomiokirkko, where the diet of the first duchy of Finland was held in the 1800s. The Walter Runebergin Veistoskokoelma (Walter Runeberg Sculpture Collection;, Aleksanterink 5. 019/582-186) has some wonderful pieces and is well worth a visit. The Porvoo Museo (Välik. 11. 019/574-7500 or 019/574-7589. www.porvoonmuseo.fi), inside the historic town hall built in 1764, captures the region's social and cultural history through exhibits on daily life and household objects. Next door to the Porvoo Museo, the Edelfelt-Vallgren Museo (Välik. 11. 019/574-7500 or 019/574-7589) exhibits Edelfelt's art, as well as paintings, sculpture, glass, and ceramics by other artists. The Edelfelt-Vallgren Museum will be closed for restoration until 2007, but many of its permanent collections can be seen at the Porvoo Museum in the meantime.

Near Porvoo in Haikko, you can visit the Albert Edelfeltin Atelje (019/577-414), the painter's studio of Albert Edelfelt. Contact the Porvoo City Tourist Office (Rihkamakatu 4, 06100, Porvoo. 019/520-2316. www.porvoo.fi) for details about all local sights.

Part of the fun of visiting Porvoo is the journey you take to get there. On summer Saturdays (July through the end of August, except Midsummer) there is a train connection along the historical museum rail between Helsinki and Porvoo, on board the old trains from the 1950s and 1960s. Prices are EUR 12 one-way, EUR 20 round-trip. Once in Porvoo, you can take a historic ride on a steam train to Hinthaara and back. Contact the Porvoo Museum Railway Society (0400/700-717. helsinkiww.net/pmr) for details. Far more regular than the historic train journey is the boat service. May through September, cruises depart from Helsinki's South Harbor regularly (check the Web site for exact dates and times): the J. L. Runeberg takes 3 1/2 hours, and the round-trip costs EUR 31. The King takes 3 hours each way and costs EUR 32 for a round-trip. You will be taken westward through dozens of islands before landing at Porvoo, which is small enough to be covered on foot. For more information, contact the boat companies or Porvoo City Tourist Office (019/520-2316 tourist office; 019/524-3331 J. L. Runeberg; 09/612-2950 M/S King (Royal Line). www.msjlruneberg.fi). There are also bus and road connections.

Vantaa

Though not remarkable, Vantaa -- the municipality north of Helsinki proper and the home of the international airport -- has a few notable attractions. A welcome surplus of open green space and trails for biking, hiking, and running create an oasis for outdoor enthusiasts. Don't miss the 15th-century Helsingin Pitajan Kirkko (Parish Church).

Consider using Vantaa as home base if your trip to Helsinki coincides with a convention and you can't find accommodations there: the airport is within the city's municipal boundaries and easily reached by public transport. The Helsinki Card also works in Vantaa.

The Heureka Suomalainen Tiedekeskus has interactive exhibits on topics as diverse as energy, language, and papermaking. There is also a cafeteria, a park, and a planetarium with taped commentary in English as well as the Verne IMAX-type theater.[. Tiedepuisto 1, Tikkurila. 09/85799. www.heureka.fi. EUR 13.50 exhibitions only, EUR 8 for the Verne theater only, EUR 18 for both. Mid-Aug.-June, Mon., Wed., and Fri. 10-5, Thurs. 10-8, weekends 10-6; July-mid-Aug., weekdays 10-7, weekends 10-6

The peaceful Viherpaja Japanese and Cactus gardens in Vantaa include an exhibition of carnivorous plants.[. Meiramitie 1. 09/822-628. www.viherpaja.fi. Japanese Garden and carnivorous plants EUR 1, other gardens free. June-Aug., weekdays 8-6, weekends 9-4; Sept.-May, weekdays 8-7, weekends 9-5

The Suomen Ilmailumuseo has more than 60 military and civilian aircraft on display.[. Tietotie 3. 09/870-0870. www.suomenilmailumuseo.fi. EUR 6. Daily 11-6

Contact the Vantaa Travel Center (Ratatie 7, Tikkurila, 01300. 09/8392-2133. 09/8392-2371. www.vantaa.fi) for more information.