Musée d'Unterlinden

Musée d'Unterlinden Review

The cultural highlight of Colmar is the Musée d'Unterlinden, once a medieval Dominican convent and hotbed of Rhenish mysticism. Its star attraction is one of the greatest altarpieces of the 16th century, the Retable d'Issenheim (1512-16), by Matthias Grünewald, which is majestically displayed in the convent's Gothic chapel. Originally painted for the convent at Issenheim, 22 km (14 mi) south of Colmar, the multi-panel work is either the last gasp of medievalism or a breathtaking preview of modernism and all its neuroses. Framed with two-sided wings that unfold to reveal the Crucifixion and Incarnation, the masterpiece includes depictions of the Annunciation, the Resurrection, and scenes from the life of St. Anthony, including a Temptation involving monsters that even outdo those of Hieronymous Bosch. Replete with raw realism (note the chamber pots, boil-covered bellies, and dirty linen), Grünewald's altarpiece was believed to have miraculous healing powers over ergotism: widespread in the Middle Ages, this malady was produced by the ingestion of fungus-ridden grains and caused its victims—many of whom were being nursed at the Issenheim convent—to experience delusional, nearly hallucinogenic fantasies. Other treasures can be found around the enchanting 13th-century cloister, including arms and armor. Upstairs are fine regional furnishings and a collection of Rhine Valley paintings from the Renaissance, including Martin Schongauer's opulent 1470 altarpiece painted for Jean d'Orlier. There is a collection of contemporary and modern art as well; however, it will be closed to the public until an ongoing renovation project is completed in mid 2014.