$$-$$$, Modern French, Opéra/Grands Boulevards
Fodor's Review:
Modern French
Angl'Opéra. If you want to see what la jeune cuisine is all about -- a movement led by chefs (not all necessarily young) who are daring to do their own thing -- visit this plush, brown-and-jewel-tone restaurant in the Edouard VII hotel. Here, chef Gilles Choukroun has done away with menu conventions, listing the main ingredient at the end of descriptions such as "GRILLED, grapefruit, green tea, spinach and RUMPSTEAK" (read only the capital letters and the menu will start to make sense). In his quest for new flavor combinations, Choukroun sometimes forgets to make the food easy to handle -- but you can't go wrong with his trademark dish, foie gras crème brûlée, nor with indulgent desserts such as little pastries filled with salted caramel, ginger, maple syrup and CHOCOLATE. Popular with a business clientele at lunch, the restaurant feels cozier in the evening.
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