Pascal Barbot may have risen to fame thanks to his restaurant's amazing-value food and casual atmosphere, but a few years later Astrance has become resolutely haute. Most diners put their faith in the chef by ordering his EUR 150 tasting menu, which unfolds over two to three hours in a series of surprisingly light courses. Even à la carte meals here -- available only at lunch -- cost at least EUR 120, but Barbot's cooking has such an ethereal quality that it's worth the considerable effort of booking a table (start trying at least six weeks in advance). Barbot's dishes often draw on Asian ingredients, as in grilled lamb with miso-lacquered eggplant and a palate-cleansing white sorbet spiked with chili pepper and lemongrass. Wines by the glass offer great value but don't always match the quality of the food. For a tantalizing taste of Barbot's style, order the EUR 70 lunch menu.
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