As the diorama of a stuffed ferret amid a fairy-tale mushroom forest in the entrance announces, this charming bistro offers some of the earthiest dishes in the French canon. With its historic fin-de-siècle charm, this is the place to head if you're hunting for game: Catch it here in late fall, in such dishes as lièvre à la royale (hare in wine-and-blood sauce) or the noisette de biche (doe). Some dishes are so authentique they're topped with pine needles. Watch out, though, for the hefty price supplements on many seasonal dishes.
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