Following in the footsteps of Joël Robuchon and Alain Senderens, Christian Constant has given up the star chase in favor of more accessible prices and a packed dining room. In 2006 Constant gave his flagship restaurant a chic new cream-and-brown color scheme, began offering a single EUR 45 set menu (with several choices for each course) and put Stéphane Schmidt in charge of the kitchen while he dashes about the dining room making sure the hordes are happy. And why wouldn't they be? The food is sophisticated and the atmosphere is lively. You can even find signature dishes such as the almond crusted sea bass with rémoulade sauce (a buttery caper sauce), alongside game and scallops (in season) and comforting desserts like pots de crème and chocolate tart. The food is still heavy on the butter, but with wines starting at around EUR 20 this is a wonderful place for a classic yet informal French meal.
Member Reviews & Ratings:
A Change, Not for the Better
Posted by drbb from Baton Rouge on 10/31/06
As my previous post will attest, I loved this restaurant on a 2004 visit. And I was so looking forward to this meal. What a difference on a return trip in September 2006! The decor, the menu, the service -- all significantly different. The decor seems colder and blander, although I suppose it is intended to reflect a more casual atmosphere. The service was spotty which is unacceptable in a restaurant of this calibre - we were brought the wrong dish, we had to ask for silverware at one point, the servers seemed rushed and frenetic. I had a starter of oeufs meurette which was very good but my entree of cote de boeuf was nothing truly spectacular. It was a HUGE portion which is not a good thing in my opinion. I prefer Parisian portions and quality over quantity. My husband's rumsteak entree is also huge - again, good but not memorable. His dessert of berries and mascarpone cream ringed with a drizzle of lime infused honey is the best dish of the night. When we finish our meal, it is pouring rain outside and the maitre d' basically points us in the direction of the taxi stand and leaves us to fend for ourselves. Our bill was less expensive than on our last visit. But I would have happily paid for a repeat of my 2004 experience. I would not come here again.
FOOD: 3.0
ATMOSPHERE: 3.0
SERVICE: 3.0
VALUE: 4.0
RATING: 3.2