Modern French
Le Murano. If you love Baccarat's Cristal Room, you'll simply adore the swank Murano Urban Resort's restaurant in the achingly chic northern Marais. There is nothing subtle about the dining room, whose ceiling drips with white tubes of various lengths. Dress to the nines and arrive with plenty of attitude (or brace yourself with three test tubes of alcohol at the bar). The light, modern, Mediterranean-inspired food neither distracts nor offends -- try smoked salmon with pink tarama (cod roe), sautéed squid, and waffle-style potato chips. An oh-so-chic Sunday brunch is served until 5 PM. If you can survive the sneering once-over at the door, surprisingly good-humored dining room staff add to the experience.
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