If you can't fathom paying EUR 200 and up per person to taste the cooking of Pierre Gagnaire, the city's most experimental chef, book a meal at his informal fish restaurant instead. At Gaya Rive Gauche -- aim for the main floor room, with its fish-scale wall, natural lighting, and bar for solo diners -- Gagnaire uses seafood as a palette for his creative impulses. Expect small portions of artfully presented food, as in a seafood gelée encircled by white beans and draped with Spanish ham, or cod "petals" in a martini glass with soba noodles, mango, and grapefruit. Don't miss the desserts, which are one of Gagnaire's great strengths.
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