Touring the Calanques

Touring the Calanques

To go on a boat ride to Les Calanques from Cassis, get to the port around 10 AM or 2 PM and look for a boat that's loading passengers. Two of the best choices are the Moby Dick III and the Ville de Cassis -- they have glass-bottom views and full commentary (in French only). But a slew of alternative boats won't leave you stranded. Round-trips should include at least three calanques and average EUR 11. In July and August there is a "Spectacle Son et Lumiere" boat trip that leaves nightly at 10:30 PM (EUR 10). For specific daytime departure times, contact La Visite des Calanques (04-42-01-90-83).

You can also visit the Calanques from Marseille's Vieux Port on a four-hour minicruise with the Groupement des Armateurs Cotiers Marseillais. Tours leave at 2 every Wednesday, Saturday, and Sunday (except in stormy mistrals).[. 1 quai des Belges. 04-91-55-50-09. answeb.net/gacm

To really get up close and personal, remember that the Calanques offer some of the best diving in France. Weather permitting, there are spectacular cave daily dives to view brightly colored coral and abundant fish. Maestro diver Henri Cosquer (famous for discovering one of the oldest caves in the area) runs Cassis Services Plongée (04-42-01-89-16. www.cassis-services-plongee.fr. Closed mid-Nov.-mid-Mar.).

To hike the Calanques, gauge your skills: the GR98 (marked with red-and-white bands) is the most scenic route, but requires ambitious scrambling to get down the sheer walls of En Vau. The alternative is to follow the green markers and approach En Vau from behind. The faded markers could use revision nonetheless. If you're ambitious, you can hike the length of the GR98 between Marseille and Cassis, following the coastline, a distance of roughly 30 km (18 mi). Arrange in advance for a boat pickup or drop-off at En Vau. For guided nature walks, diving, kayaking, or sailing along the Calanques, contact Massilia Sport Adventure (06-12-39-59-59. www.massilia-aventure.com).