Abbaye de Montmajour

Abbaye de Montmajour Review

This magnificent Romanesque abbey looming over the marshlands north of Arles stands in partial ruin. Begun in the 12th century by a handful of Benedictine monks, the abbey grew according to an ambitious plan of church, crypt, and cloister and, under the management of corrupt lay monks in the 17th century, became more sumptuous. When the Church ejected those monks, they sacked the place, and what remained was eventually sold off as scrap. A 19th-century medieval revival spurred a partial restoration, but portions are still in ruins. What remains is a spare and beautiful piece of Romanesque architecture. The cloister rivals that of St-Trophime in Arles for its balance, elegance, and air of mystical peace: Van Gogh, drawn to its isolation, came often to the abbey to paint and reflect. The interior, renovated by contemporary architect Rudy Ricciotti, is used for temporary art exhibitions, and the Chapelle St Croix is open for visits—but you need to ask for the keys.