Sweet, Sour, or Straight-up?

Sweet, Sour, or Straight-up?

Apfelwein, sometimes called ebbelwoi by locals, is truly unique to Frankfurt and the surrounding state of Hesse. It has great traditions. Taverns serve this special cider from fat-bellied blue stoneware pitchers, called Bembels, and the glasses, usually with a crest, are ribbed to give them "traction." (In the old days, when people used knives and forks less often, this was good for preventing the glass from slipping from greasy hands).

Apfelwein is a part of the life of Frankfurt. There is an exhibition to it, and a souvenir-filled restaurant that serves it, at the Historical Museum. On weekends a colorfully painted old street car called the Ebbelwoi Express makes the rounds of Frankfurt's touristic sights. A bottle of Apfelwein, a pretzel, and schmaltzy music are included in the price.

To produce Apfelwein, juice from pressed apples is fermented for approximately eight weeks. Some people find it rather sour and mix it with sparkling water (called sauergespritzt, or "sour") or with lemonade (called süssgespritzt, or "sweet"). You can also get sweet cider, known as Süsser.

Locals will be impressed, and may even tell you so, if they see you try it straight. Be careful, though: consuming large quantities of Apfelwein will make most stomachs unhappy.

The largest concentration of Frankfurt Apfelwein establishments is in the old neighborhood of Sachsenhausen. If you want to visit a bar or restaurant that sells its own homemade Apfelwein, look for a pine wreath hanging over the door.

Probably the most popular item to accompany the Apfelwein is a Rippchen, or cured pork chop, served on a mound of sauerkraut. Another dish that is quite popular is the Schlachtplatte, an assortment of sausages and smoked meats. There is also the frankfurter sausage, of course, and a snack called Handkäs mit Musik, a piece of bread spread with soft cheese, onions, vinegar, and oil.