Side Trip to Landshut

Side Trip to Landshut

If fortune had placed Landshut south of Munich, in the protective folds of the Alpine foothills, instead of the same distance north, in the subdued flatlands of Lower Bavaria -- of which it is the capital -- the historic town would be teeming with tourists. Landshut's geographical misfortune is the discerning visitor's good luck, for the town is never overcrowded, with the possible exception of the three summer weeks when the Landshuter Hochzeit (Landshut Wedding) is celebrated (it takes place every four years, the next occasion being in 2009). The festival commemorates the marriage in 1475 of Prince George of Bavaria-Landshut, son of the expressively named Ludwig the Rich, to Princess Hedwig, daughter of the king of Poland. Within its ancient walls, the entire town is swept away in a colorful reconstruction of the event. The wedding procession, with the "bride" and "groom" on horseback accompanied by pipes and drums and the hurly-burly of a medieval pageant, is held on three consecutive weekends while a medieval-style fair fills the central streets throughout the three weeks.

Landshut has two magnificent cobblestone market streets. The one in Altstadt (Old Town) is one of the most beautiful city streets in Germany; the other is in Neustadt (New Town). The two streets run parallel to each other, tracing a course between the Isar River and the heights overlooking the town.

A steep path from Altstadt takes you up to Burg Trausnitz. This castle was begun in 1204 and accommodated the Wittelsbach dukes of Bavaria-Landshut until 1503.[. 0871/924-110. www.burgtrausnitz.de. EUR 4, including guided tour. Apr.-Sept., daily 9-6; Oct.-Mar., daily 9-5:30

The Stadtresidenz in Altstadt was the first Italian Renaissance building of its kind north of the Alps. It was built from 1536 to 1537 but was given a baroque facade at the end of the 19th century. The Wittelsbachs lived here during the 16th century. The facade of the palace forms an almost modest part of the architectural splendor and integrity of the Altstadt, where even the ubiquitous McDonald's has to serve its hamburgers behind a baroque exterior. The Stadtresidenz includes exhibitions on the history of Landshut.[. Altstadt 79, Altstadt. 0871/22638. EUR 3. Apr.-Sept., Tues.-Sun. 9-6; Oct.-Mar., Tues.-Sun. 10-4

The Rathaus stands opposite the Stadtresidenz, an elegant, light-color building with a typical neo-Gothic roof design. It was originally a set of 13th-century burgher houses, taken over by the town in the late 1300s. The famous bride and groom allegedly danced in the grand ceremonial hall during their much-celebrated wedding in 1475. The frescos here date to 1880, however. The tourist information bureau is on the ground floor.[. Altstadt 315. 0871/922-050. Free. Weekdays 2-3, and on official tours

The Martinskirche, with the tallest brick church tower (436 feet) in the world, soars above the other buildings with its bristling spire. The church, which was elevated to the rank of basilica minor in 2002, contains some magnificent late-Gothic stone and wood carvings, notably a 1518 Madonna by the artist Martin Leinberger. It's surely the only church in the world to contain an image of Hitler, albeit in a devilish pose. The führer and other Nazi leaders are portrayed as executioners in a 1946 stained-glass window showing the martyrdom of St. Kastulus. In the nave of the church is a clear and helpful description of its history and treasures in English. Every first Sunday of the month, a tour is conducted between 11:30 and 12:30 that will take you up the tower and to the Schatzkammer, the church's treasure chamber.[. Altstadt and Kirchg. 0871/922-1780. Apr.-Sept., Tues.-Thurs. and weekends 7-6:30; Oct.-Mar., Tues.-Thurs. and weekends 7-5

Built into a steep slope of the hill crowned by Burg Trausnitz is an unusual art museum, the Skulpturenmuseum im Hofberg, containing the entire collection of the Landshut sculptor Fritz Koenig. His own work forms the permanent central section of the labyrinthine gallery.[. Kolpingstr. 481. 0871/89021. EUR 3.50. Tues.-Sun. 10:30-1 and 2-5

Freising. This ancient episcopal seat, 35 km (22 mi) southwest of Landshut, houses a cathedral and Old Town well worth visiting. The town is also accessible from Munich (at the end of the S-bahn 1 line, a 45-minute ride from central Munich).

Where to Stay & Eat

There are several attractive Bavarian-style restaurants in Altstadt and Neustadt, most of them with beer gardens. Although Landshut brews a fine beer, look for a Gaststätte offering a Weihenstephaner, from the world's oldest brewery, in Freising. Helles (light) is the most popular beer variety.

Hotel Goldene Sonne. The steeply gabled Renaissance exterior of the "Golden Sun" fronts a hotel of great charm and comfort. It stands in the center of town, near all the sights. Its dining options are a paneled, beamed restaurant ($-$$); a vaulted cellar; and a courtyard beer garden, where the service is friendly and helpful. The menu follows the seasons and tows the "quintessential Bavarian" line, with pork roast, steamed or smoked trout with horseradish, asparagus in the spring (usually accompanied by potatoes or ham), and venison in the fall.[. Neustadt 520, D-84028. 0871/92530. 0871/925-3350. www.goldenesonne.de. 60 rooms. In-room: no a/c, Internet, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, some pets allowed (fee), no-smoking rooms, minibar. AE, DC, MC, V. Full breakfast

Romantik Hotel Fürstenhof. This handsome Landshut city mansion, located a few minutes on foot from the center of town, had no difficulty qualifying for inclusion in the Romantik group of hotels -- it just breathes romance, from its plush gourmet restaurant ($$$), covered in wood paneling, to the cozy bedrooms. A vine-covered terrace shadowed by a chestnut tree adds charm.[. Stethaimerstr. 3, D-84034. 0871/92550. 0871/925-544. www.romantikhotels.com/landshut. 24 rooms. In-room: no a/c (some), Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, no-smoking rooms. AE, DC, MC, V. Full breakfast. Restaurant closed Sun.

Schloss Schönbrunn. This country mansion is now a luxurious hotel, with many of its original features intact. Rooms in the most historic part of the building are particularly attractive, with huge double beds, and represent excellent value. The handsome house stands in the Schönbrunn district of Landshut, about 2 km (1 mi) from the center. The journey is worthwhile even for the excellent restaurant ($$-$$$), where the menu includes fish from the hotel's own pond, or for a romantic evening at the beer garden.[. Schönbrunn 1, D-84036. 0871/95220. 0871/952-2222. www.hotel-schoenbrunn.de. 33 rooms. In-room: no a/c, Internet. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, some pets allowed (fee), no-smoking rooms. AE, DC, MC, V. Full breakfast