Relax on the jasmine-covered terrace and enjoy friendly owner Tassos Kollias's creations. Flavors range from the humble to the aristocratic: fried whole squid in its ink; sea urchin salad; lobster with lemon, balsamic vinegar, and a shot of honey. He's known for bringing in a high-quality catch, whether mullet from Messolonghi or oysters culled by Kalymnos sponge divers, and prices are usually lower than at most fish tavernas. For a fitting end to the meal, try fresh loukoumades (sweet fritters) or bougatsa (custard in phyllo). Ask for directions when you reserve -- even locals get lost trying to find the obscure street.
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