Situated in southern Pest, at the foot of the Lágymányosi Bridge, right beside the similarly grand National Theater (which opened five years earlier), this monumental (750,000-square-foot) venue is not just a place where the capital's nouveau riche can spend their forints on a wide array of musical, theatrical, and dance performances in addition to dining in style. As per the title of a brochure advertising its splendors, it is also an "experience in every sense" -- much of which is accessible free of charge to anyone who wants to wander around inside. Of course, you first have to make your way to Boráros tér and take the HÉV commuter train one stop -- a bit of a bother, but worth it, if you have several days in Budapest. On the outside the place does indeed look palatial, in a very modern sense. The inside, as spacious and as sparkling as it is, contains plenty of intimate, well-cushioned little nooks on all floors on both sides of its National Concert Hall -- which occupies its center -- where you can take a seat and ponder life and/or art.

In addition to housing the National Concert Hall, the Festival Theatre, a restaurant, and a couple of stores, the Palace is home to the Ludwig Múzeum, a venue of contemporary art that moved here in 2005 from its former home in Castle Hill's Royal Palace. The permanent collection covers American Pop Art (e.g., Warhol); the German, French, and Italian trans-avant-garde; and Eastern and Central European art (including, of course, Hungarian art from the 1960s to the present day.) District IX, Komor Marcell utca 1. 1/555-3444. Free, special exhibits 1,000 HUF. Tues., Fri., and Sun. 10-6, Wed. 12-6, Thurs. 12-8, and Sat. 10-8, until 10 the last Sat. of each month. www.ludwigmuseum.hu. M3: Ülloi út.