Getting Oriented

Despite the hustle and bustle generated by Ireland's flourishing economy, Dublin remains an intimate capital that mixes elegant Georgian buildings, wrought-iron bridges, an army of booksellers, and more than 1,000 pubs. The heart of the city is the river Liffey, which runs east to west, splitting Dublin neatly in two. The more affluent Southside has a greater concentration of sights, and it can seem a world apart from the more working-class (though increasingly gentrified) Northside. North or south, Dublin is compact and easily navigated, making it a great walking city.

The Southside. Between Christ Church Cathedral and Trinity College lies a concentration of famous sights. Merrion Square is the heart of the Georgian district; to its west, four major museums sit side by side. Southwest from there is quaint St. Stephen's Green, which connects to Trinity via stylish, pedestrian-only Grafton Street.

Temple Bar. The cobblestone streets and small lanes bounded by Wellington Quay and Dame Street have been transformed into Dublin's trendiest neighborhood. The nightlife doesn't stop at 'last call," and on weekends the streets are packed with young people from all over Europe.

The Northside. Less affluent but more elloquent than the Southside, this neighborhood was once home to James Joyce; today it's the site of the Dublin Writers Museum and the James Joyce Centre. Other highlights are the grand Custom House, historic O'Connell Street, and Dublin's two great theaters, the Abbey, and the Gate.

Dublin West. This former industrial district stretches from Christ Church west to that other Dublin shrine, the Guinness Brewery. Imposing Dublin Castle houses the Chester Beatty Library -- arguably the most impressive museum in Ireland. Phoenix Park, Europe's largest public city park, hugs the north bank of the Liffey.