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Entertainment Overview

Dubliners have always enjoyed a night out, but in the last decade or so they have turned the pleasure into a work of art. The city has undergone a major nightlife revolution and now, for better or worse, it bears more than a passing resemblance to Europe's nightclub hot spot, London. The streets of the city center, previously hushed after the pubs closed, are the scene of what appears to be a never-ending party -- you're as likely to find crowds at 2 AM on a Wednesday as you are at the same time on a Saturday. Loud, brash dance clubs, where style and swagger rule, have replaced the old-fashioned discos, once the only option for late-night entertainment. In Dublin's clubs the dominant sound is electronic dance music, and the crowd that flocks to them every night of the week is of the trendy, under-30 generation. Leeson Street -- just off St. Stephen's Green, south of the Liffey, and known as "the strip" -- is a main nightclub area that revs up at pub closing time and lasts until 4 AM. It has lost its gloss since a number of lap-dancing establishments have opened. The dress code at Leeson Street's dance clubs is informal, but jeans and sneakers are not welcome. Most of these clubs are licensed only to sell wine, and the prices can be exorbitant (up to EUR 26 for a mediocre bottle); the upside is that most don't charge to get in.

There are plenty of alternatives to the electronic dance scene, including nightclubs where the dominant sounds range from soul to salsa -- such as the weekend nightclub "Play" at the Gaiety Theatre and the totally Latin Sugar Club. Although jazz isn't a big part of the nightlife here, a few regular venues do draw the best of local and international talent. And if you're looking for something more mellow, the city doesn't disappoint: there are brasseries, bistros, cafés, and all manner of other late-night eateries where you can sit, sip, and chat until 2 AM or later.

In another trend, some of Dublin's classic pubs -- arguably some of the finest watering holes in the world -- have been reinvented and are now popular spots, with modern interiors and designer drinks, to attract a younger, upwardly mobile crowd. Beware Dublin Tourism's "Official Dublin Pub Guide," which has a tendency to recommend many of these bland spots. Despite the changes, however, the traditional pub has steadfastly clung to its role as the primary center of Dublin's social life. The city has nearly 1,000 pubs ("licensed tabernacles," writer Flann O'Brien calls them). And although the vision of elderly men enjoying a chin wag over a creamy pint of stout has become something of a rarity, there are still plenty of places where you can enjoy a quiet drink and a chat. Last drinks are called at 11:30 PM Monday to Wednesday, 12:30 AM Thursday to Saturday, and 11 PM on Sunday. Some city-center pubs have extended opening hours and don't serve last drinks until 1:45 AM.

A word of warning: although most pubs and clubs are extremely safe, the lads can get lively -- public drunkenness is very much a part of Dublin's nightlife. Whereas this is for the most part seen as the Irish form of unwinding after a long week (or, well, day), it can sometimes lead to regrettable incidents (fighting, for instance). In an effort to keep potential trouble at bay, bouncers and security guards maintain a visible presence in all clubs and many pubs around the city. At the end of the night, the city center is full of young people trying to get home, which makes for extremely long lines at taxi stands and late-night bus stops, especially on weekends. The combination of drunkenness and impatience can sometimes lead to trouble, so act cautiously. If you will need late-night transportation, try to arrange it with your hotel before you go out.