Where now the glories of Babylon? It's a long time since O'Connell Street was the social center of Dublin and the Gresham Hotel was the place to be seen dining. But recent years have seen something of a comeback for the famous old hotel, and the ultramodern 23 is a big part of that revival. The decor leaves some cold, but the blend of droplights, tubular tables, and contemporary art against the backdrop of a dramatic glass wall would certainly delight the readers of Wallpaper. The brasserie-style cooking makes use of local ingredients in seafood, duck, chicken, steak, and vegetarian dishes. The pavlova trio, crammed with raspberries, blueberries, and strawberries, is a firm favorite, and a short but varied wine list has been well thought out. The breakfast -- buffet-style or from a menu that includes eggs and a full Irish breakfast -- attracts early-rising tourists and locals.
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