"Like eating on stage at the Met in the middle of Act Two" is how one wag described the sheer opulence of the jaw-dropping dining room at this classic French brasserie. Roman urns, little bronze cupids, busts of emperors, huge Regency mirrors, elaborate candelabras, and a large stained-glass skylight create a gloriously over-the-top Neoclassical ambience under the intricately plastered high ceilings. Such an operatic setting gives every meal a sense of fun and occasion. The food is in danger of being upstaged, but try the beautiful crispy confit duck leg with butter bean and merguez (sausage) stew; roasted scallops with artichoke mash and tomato vinaigrette; or giant prawns served with garlic or mango mayonnaise. Expect brisk but friendly service.
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