The words "Dublin's finest restaurant" often share the same breath as the name of this do-be-impressed place on the ground floor of the Merrion Hotel. The menu is described as French, but Guilbaud's genius lies in his occasional daring use of traditional Irish ingredients -- so often abused and taken for granted -- to create the unexpected. With the eponymous chef in charge, you can always expect superb cooking. His best dishes are simple -- and flawless: Châlons duck à l'orange, Connemara lobster in season, and braised pig's trotters. Follow that, if you can, with the assiette au chocolat (a tray of five hot-and-cold chocolate desserts). The ambience is just as delicious -- if you're into modern art, that is. There are no Georgian Gainsboroughs to be found here. Instead, you'll think you've wandered into skyscraper Manhattan, thanks to the marvelously lofty dining room and minimalist art hanging on the walls (the Roderick O'Connor and Louis LeBrocquys are all from the owner's private collection). Nearly as impressive is the 70-page wine list, the view of the Merrion's manicured gardens, and the lunch special for under EUR 30. Soaring white vaults and empty white walls won't make you feel warm and cozy but you can always go somewhere else for that. What you won't find anywhere else is Guilbaud.

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