Judges from the nearby Four Courts rest their wigs on empty seats while the fashion crowd sits over multicolor drinks at this chic restaurant in the even more chic Morrison Hotel. With a soaring ceiling and minimalist decor, the dramatic two-story dining room, devised by fashion designer John Rocha, looks moody and mysterious by night, and a little forbidding by day. French and fusion are the two Fs favored by chef Jean-Michel Poulot, with seafood comprising his star dishes. Monkfish Wellington for two with market veg and spuds is one of the ever-changing specialties. The baked oysters starter is imaginatively combined with good old green cabbage and lemon and chive sabayon. Desserts are miniature works of art on enormous china platters.
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