$$$$, Sorrento
Fodor's Review:
In the late 19th century, Empress Eugénie of France came here for a week and wound up staying three months. You'll understand why if you stay at this soigné retreat, magisterially placed on a bluff high over the Bay of Naples (wait until you see the view of Sorrento from the glass-enclosed lobby). One of Italy's most legendary hotels, this connoisseur's favorite is a gentle fantasia of Venetian chandeliers, Louis-Phillipe rugs, and Belle Epoque murals (recently retouched) painted to make the King of Bavaria feel more at home back in the 1860s. Or was, until a recent renovation (room by room, beginning in 2004) transformed a block of the guest rooms into visions right out of today's sizzling South Beach. The gilded chandeliers have been replaced by hip and modern ones, avant-garde artworks rub shoulder with trompe l'oeil frescoes, and plate-glass coffee tables now adorn the ducal salons. Best of all is the Villa Pompeiana, the hotel restaurant, originally built as a dollhouse-size antique villa fit for an emperor and once part of Lord Astor's Edwardian-era villa. Replete with "ancient" frescoes, the two rooms make a truly unique and ravishing setting for the tempting menu -- I Galli Lobster with Melon Pearls, anyone? No less an authority than Heinrich Schliemann, discoverer of Troy, declared the hotel's vistas of distant Vesuvius the grandest in the land.
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