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Hotels Overview

Most lodgings in this part of Campania have been owned by the same families for generations, and whether the owner is plain mamma-and-papà or an heir to a ducal line, personality is evident. Along with local management may come quirks, even in the fanciest establishments -- floors that dip a bit, faucets off-center, wake-up calls when you're already brushing your teeth. But you just may get your hand kissed or an invitation to chat, or get to know a glossy family dog named Lorenzo, or a cat named Luca, and isn't that sort of thing more memorable in the long run?

But the 21st century has finally wrought change, and with it, numerous 19th-century cliff-side villas and palazzi, with their big gardens and grand staircases, huge baths and tile floors, have recently been transformed into hyper-luxury hotels. Three of the landmark hotels of Ravello -- the Villa Cimbrone, Palazzo Sasso, and the Caruso Belvedere -- have all been newly fitted out with the latest mod-cons and old-timers may be shocked to find that the old sky-high views now command even loftier prices. Happily, you don't need to be a millionaire to enjoy comfy lodgings along the Costa Divina: for "cheaper" rates, head to an albergo (small hotel or inn); the quote marks are used because many of these places cost more than 100 euros a night, due to their prime real estate overlooking the sea, but there are also plenty of bargains to be had, such as the Albergo S. Andrea, where 35 euros buys you a single room overlooking the million-euro view of Amalfi's Duomo steps. Agriturismo (country living) sets up farmhouse stays in rural and upland areas; check with local tourist boards.

When booking, note that a few hotels require half or even full board, usually hand-in-hand with a minimum stay of two or three nights. Some hotels have minimum stays for the peak periods of July and August and around holidays. Few business or fitness centers are available -- who needs them here? -- even at luxury establishments. Reserve ahead, as rooms are scarce in high season and hotels may be closed altogether in low. If you're traveling by car and reserving rooms in advance, ask about parking fees. Many guests staying in Positano and Amalfi suffer a nasty shock when they find they have to shell out up to EUR 20 per day for parking a car that they're unlikely to use during their stay. Porterage is run by cooperatives, not by hotels, in central Positano and Amalfi, and is another extra charge to be factored in.