The greatest restaurant in Campania, this is the domain of Alfonso Iaccarino, who counts Italy's ex-president Ciampi as one of his many fans. Haute-hungry pilgrims head here to feast on culinary rarities, often centuries-old recipes given a unique Iaccarinian spin. Lobster, for instance, is breaded with traditional Sorrentine "porri" flour, then drizzled with sweet-and-sour sauce influenced by the Arabian traders who came to Naples. The braciola of lamb with pine nuts and raisins is a recipe that dates back to the Renaissance, while the cannoli stuffed with foie gras pays homage to the Neapolitan Bourbon court. Nearly everything is home-grown, with olive oils di nostra produzione created on the family farm, vegetables so lovingly grown they have bodyguards, not gardeners (jokes the staff). Hand-churned butter finds its way into sublime desserts such as the pizza di cioccolato (white sugar "mozzarella" on a chocolate "pizza") or the soufflé di liquore di limone. The restaurant decor is pastel and staidly traditional -- the fireworks are reserved for the food (and the occasional Vesuvio flambéed cocktail). Don Alfonso has one of the finest wine cellars in Europe, set deep in an Oscan cave -- don't be surprised if the sommelier tells you his earliest bottle is a Roman amphora dating from 30 BC. If you want to make a late night of it, Alfonso and his enchanting wife, Livia, also run an inn ($$$$) above the restaurant, with five apartments furnished in traditional style. Light sleepers should note that the nearby church bells ring on the half hour throughout the entire night.
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