Down the street from the church of Santa Maria Novella, this gaily decorated spot, festooned with ropes of garlic and other vegetables, has an ever-changing menu and stellar service led by the irrepressible Giacinto. The kitchen has Tuscan standards, but shakes up the menu with alternatives such as sedani con bacon, verza, e uova (thick noodles sauced with bacon, cabbage, and egg). If you want to eat alfresco, request a table outside when booking.
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