Mt. Vesuvius

Mt. Vesuvius Review

As you tour the cities that it destroyed, you may be overwhelmed by the urge to explore Vesuvius itself. In summer especially, the prospect of rising above the sticky heat of Naples is a heady one. The view when the air is clear is magnificent, with the curve of the coast and the tiny white houses among the orange and lemon blossoms. If the summit is lost in mist you'll be lucky to see your hand in front of your face. When you see the summit clearing—it tends to be clearer in the afternoon—head for it. If possible, see Vesuvius after you've toured the ruins of buried Herculaneum to appreciate the magnitude of the volcano's power.

Local EAV buses (081/0141094 www.eavbus.it) climb the volcano from Pompeii ten times daily (€10 round trip) with two morning connections from Naples. Those who cannot wait for the bus can ride the 10-seat minibus run by Vesuvio Express, leaving from Ercolano train station (081/7393666 www.vesuvioexpress.it). This is a quick, painless, and relatively cheap way of getting to the top. The vehicles thread their way rapidly up on back roads, reaching the top in 20 minutes. Allow at least 2½ hours for the journey, including a 30-minute walk to the crater on a soft cinder track. The €8 admission to the crater includes a compulsory guide service, usually young geologists with a smattering of English. At the bottom you'll be offered a stout walking stick (a small tip is appreciated on return). The climb can be tiring if you're not used to steep hikes. Because of the volcanic stone you should wear athletic shoes, not sandals.