In the adorable center-city harbor of the Borgo Marinaro, this place is mentioned in Norman Lewis's classic account of wartime Napoli, Naples '44, as being a cheap dive full of local spivs and army officers. One suspects that Lewis wouldn't recognize the place now, elegantly decorated with airy Mediterranean tiles, its large terrace opening out onto the small harbor, with tables draped in linen tablecloths and silver cutlery. Book ahead to make sure you get a place as close to the seafront as possible, and enjoy the unspectacular but perfectly prepared seafood pastas and grilled fish.
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