Unlike other eateries in this area, you won't be pressured to have a Satyricon-style banquet at Downtown. Check the whiteboard inside for the day's specials, which often include couscous, and always something for nonseafood eaters. Vaulted ceilings and wooden tables inset with tiles give the place a fairly Spartan but distinctive feel. Refreshingly good local wines are served by the glass. The main entrance is right on the little port of Baia. Reservations essential Sunday.
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