Forget that this historic place gave the world pizza Margherita – the classic combo of tomato sauce, mozzarella, and basil, named after King Umberto's queen. This is, hands down, one of the most picturesque restaurants in Italy. Set on a cobblestone alleyway just off chic Via Chiaia, it welcomes you with an enchanting wood-beam salon festooned with 19th-century memorabilia, saint shrines, gilded mirrors, and bouquets of flowers, beyond which you can see the kitchen and the pizzaioli (pizza makers) at work. That's the good news. Unfortunately, most of Naples stays away, considering the pizzas are far, far better elsewhere, and finding the service somewhat off hand. But there's no denying the decor is delizioso and if "tourists" like Chelsea Clinton, Bill Murray, and Gerard Depardieu have dined here, why not you?
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