When you get the urge to dress up, head to the panoramic rooftop restaurant of the Hotel Vesuvio – a very chic locale that is not as expensive as you might think. It's named after the great Enrico, who breathed his last up here (when this space was a suite) in 1921. The food wisely declines to compete with the view of the bay but instead accompanies it suavely. Seafood predominates, from the marinated frutti di mare and fish-stuffed ravioli to the classic grilled sea bass, but if you're tired of shrimp and such, try the delicate lemon risotto or the bucatini alla Caruso (tubular spaghetti with fresh tomatoes, sweet peppers, and sautéed zucchini).
Visit the Travel Talk forums for help on planning your trip >>