Founded by Carmine Triunfo in 1890 and now run by great-grandson Antonio (who looks after the wines) and his mother Tina (who looks after the kitchen), this place has recently made a successful bid to move upmarket. Well-prepared cucina povera ("poor people's food") still dominates, from the antipasto of hot peppers, salami, and cheese to the famous vermicelli alle vongole fujute (pasta with "escaped" clams, flavored with a dose of seawater). Dinners here are fixed price (EUR 23), there's no written menu, and choice is limited to two dishes of the day.
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