Touring the Vatican

Touring the Vatican

To enter the Musei Vaticani, the Sistine Chapel, and the Basilica di San Pietro you must comply with the Vatican's dress code, or you will be turned away by the implacable custodians stationed at the doors. For both men and women, shorts and tank tops are taboo, as are miniskirts and other revealing clothing. Wear a jacket or shawl over sleeveless tops, and avoid T-shirts with writing or pictures that could risk giving offense. Start at the Musei Vaticani (Vatican Museums). The entrance on Viale Vaticano (there's a separate exit on the same street) can be reached by Bus 49 from Piazza Cavour, which stops right in front; or on foot from Piazza del Risorgimento (Bus 81 or Tram 19) or a brief walk from the Via Cipro-Musei Vaticani stop on Metro line A.

The collections of the museums are immense, covering about 7 km (4 1/2 mi) of displays. You can rent a taped commentary in English explaining the Sistine Chapel and the Raphael Rooms. You're free to photograph what you like, barring use of flash, tripod, or other special equipment, for which permission must be obtained. To economize on time and effort, once you've seen the frescoes in the Raphael rooms, you can skip the collections of modern religious art in good conscience and get on with your tour. Lines at the entrance to the Cappella Sistina (Sistine Chapel) can move slowly, as custodians block further entrance when the room becomes crowded. Keep in mind that sometimes it's possible to exit the museums from the Sistine Chapel into St. Peter's, saving time and legwork. A sign at the entrance to the museums indicates whether the exit is open.

Piazza di San Pietro is at the west end of Via della Conciliazione. If you have the stamina, take the tour of the Giardini Vaticani (Vatican Gardens); then enter the Basilica di San Pietro (St. Peter's Basilica), visiting the Museo Storico-Artistico e Tesoro and the Grotte Vaticane. Take the elevator to the roof of the basilica, a strange fairy-tale landscape of little cupolas and towers. Climb the short staircase to the gallery inside the base of the huge dome for a dove's-eye view of the papal altar below. If you can't handle a steep, claustrophobic, one-way-only climb, don't attempt the ascent to the lantern, the small, topmost cupola of the dome.

You can continue your walk to Castel Sant'Angelo, on Borgo Pio, where there are a number of trattorias and cafés. The huge medieval fortress, built over the tomb of emperor Hadrian, saved at least one pope's life, when Clement VII took refuge here during the Sack of Rome in 1527. From Castel Sant'Angelo's terraces you can get a bird's-eye view of Ponte Sant'Angelo, the graceful bridge adorned with glorious statues designed by Bernini, and the rooftops of central Rome.

Timing

If possible, break up this itinerary into two half days. Keep in mind that tours of the Giardini Vaticani start at 10 AM; it's possible to visit St. Peter's beforehand, but you won't have time for the Vatican Museums. You could do St. Peter's Basilica and Castel Sant'Angelo one day and devote another day to the museums. To do all three on the same day takes stamina and dedication; even if you rush through to the Sistine Chapel, you run the risk of cultural burn-out. Because the Vatican is close to the Via Cola di Rienzo and Via Ottaviano shopping areas, you might want to combine sightseeing with shopping. Another option would be to add Castel Sant'Angelo to the end of an Old Rome tour.

The crowds at the museums, and especially the Sistine Chapel, can be overwhelming; a good strategy is to get there either very early, before the pressure builds up, or late, as the crowds thin out. Plan on about 90 minutes for even the most cursory visit to the Vatican Museums and the Sistine Chapel. Allow an hour for St. Peter's Basilica and an hour for Castel Sant'Angelo. To do all three sights, including a lot of walking from one to another, would take five to six hours, not counting breaks.