You can get regular osteria fare and service at this member of the 'Gusto restaurant empire (which dominates the surrounding block)…but why would you? The beauty of this newish spot (opened in 2003) is what makes it different from any other trattoria in town: its adaptation of the idea of cichetti, a sort of Italian tapas that originated in the venerable bars of Venice. As wandering from bar to bar, over bridges and along canals (and getting lost along the way) is part of the fun of a night out in La Serenissima, so this Venetian idea has now been adapted to the Roman lifestyle. Here in the Eternal City, one meets friends for drinks, one eats, one lingers, and Osteria della Frezza is the perfect place to do just that. Head to the bar area (the only place cichetti service is available) and, for between one and four euros, sample pretty much anything on the regular osteria menu in a snack-sized portion, including the pastas and secondi -- an easy way to sample without "committing" to any one dish. Many will want to begin by choosing from the incredible selection of 400 cheeses in the basement cellar, then from the various fritti (fried items), moving onto pastas such as sheep's milk and pepper spaghetti. Small portions of the secondi, like baby lamb chops with potatoes, can be disappointingly plain, but the polpettine in sugo (meatballs in tomato sauce) bring to mind the best dish of that Italian grandmother everyone longs to have in their kitchen. And the miniportions make you feel as if you're behaving, even if in the end you finish off the whole plate.
Visit the Travel Talk forums for help on planning your trip >>