One of Rome's more celebrated outposts of luxe, El Toulà has the warm, welcoming comforts of a 19th-century country house: white walls, antique furniture in dark wood, framed prints, vaulted ceilings, and Venetian-style lampshades. All the refined touches are here, with beautiful table linens, heavy silver serving dishes, and spectacular fruit and flower arrangements to soothe the eye. It's the kind of place both seasoned Italians and visitors frequent, to enjoy a multicourse meal in an elegant setting where you may wish to, and can, linger for hours in comfort (or in the cozy bar off the entrance). Along with the usual suspects of high-roller choices (caviar and blini), the chef offers a menu rich with contemporary interpretations of Italian classics, as well as those special El Toulà dishes that come with a Venetian slant (the mother restaurant is in Treviso). This means delicious, expertly prepared risottos (served in the Venetian, more soupy style) and a nod to the various sea creatures of the Adriatic coast and Venetian lagoon. Note that jacket and tie are required November through February.
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