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Villa d'Este Review

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• Villa Adriana

Villa d'Este

Fodor's Review:

Right in the center of Tivoli, Villa d'Este, created by cardinal Ippolito d'Este in the 16th century, was the most amazing pleasure garden of its day and still stuns visitors with its beauty. Inspired by the recent excavation of Villa Adriana and a devotee of the Renaissance celebration of human ingenuity over nature, Este (1509-72) paid architect Pirro Ligorrio an astronomical sum to create a mythical garden with water as its artistic centerpiece. To console himself for his seesawing fortunes in the political intrigues of his time (he happened to be cousin to Pope Alexander VI), he had his builders tear down part of a Franciscan monastery to clear the site, then divert the Aniene River to water the garden and feed the fountains – and what fountains: big, small, noisy, quiet, rushing, running, and combining to create a late-Renaissance, proto Busby Berkeley masterpiece in which sunlight, shade, water, gardens, and carved stone create an unforgettable experience. There are fountains of all shapes and sizes, from the tiny cascades that line the stone staircases leading down to the fish ponds at the bottom of the garden to the massive organ fountain that once played music. To this day, several hundred fountains cascade, shoot skyward, imitate bird songs, and simulate rain. Ancient cypress trees provide shade along the pathways. There's also a café on the upper terrace leading from the palace entrance, where you can sit and admire the view. Allow at least an hour for this visit (although you may want to spend the entire day) and bear in mind that you'll be climbing a lot of stairs. On some weekends in summer, "Villa d'Este at Night" allows you to tour the gardens and gape at all the fountains spotlighted to spectacular effect; show hours are from 9 to midnight (for annual dates, see the Web site).

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