The paper tablecloths and cozy, laid-back ambience are all part of this small restaurant's charm. The all-seafood menu varies according to what's fresh that day; imaginative combinations of ingredients in the primi -- herring and sweet peppers, salmon and radicchio, giant shrimp and broccoli (with pumpkin gnocchi) -- are the norm. A meal here followed by after-dinner drinks at Campo Santa Margherita, a five-minute walk away, makes for a lovely evening. The kitchen closes early on weekdays.
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