Venice with Kids

Venice with Kids

Dining in Venice can present some obstacles if you're traveling with children. Most notable is the fish factor: the notorious non-favorite with kids dominates Venetian menus. Most -- though not all -- restaurants will have other offerings; if fish is going to be a problem, it's a good idea to check what alternatives are available before booking or taking your seat.

Generally, children will feel welcome at casual establishments such as trattorias, but only very well-behaved children should go to higher-end restaurants; indeed, it's rare to see Italian children in them. Some restaurants and trattorias will have high chairs or cushions for children to sit on, but you won't find a children's menu. Instead, ask the waiter for a mezza porzione (half portion) or porzione da bambino (child's portion) of any dish. Though spaghetti and meatballs isn't found on menus, other pasta dishes such as spaghetti al pomodoro (with tomato sauce) may prove to be suitable substitutions. Italian children are fond of pasta in bianca (with butter) and con olio e parmigiano (with olive oil and Parmesan); even if they're not on the menu, most chefs will be happy to prepare them. Many restaurants serve prosciutto e melone (cured ham and melon, available in season) and insalata caprese (mozzarella, tomatoes, and basil), both of which can be attractive alternatives for a child confronted with calf's liver and cuttlefish.

Venetian pizza is a last resort, or nearly so; though most of it is forgettable at best, the familiar wedge of dough and cheese may be the closest thing to comfort food a young diner will find. That is, unless you count McDonald's, which has found its way to La Serenissima, to the chagrin of many natives and visitors alike. The most central location is near the Rialto bridge.

An extra bed or a crib for children can usually be added in Venetian hotel rooms, but it rarely comes free of charge -- expect to pay between 20% and 40% extra. Some hotels in Venice allow children under a certain age to stay in their parents' room at no extra cost, but others charge for them as extra adults; be sure to find out the cutoff age for children's discounts. Good family choices include Al Piave, Sturion, Villa Igea, and Sofitel.

While a pool is a blessing -- for adults as well as kids -- in the heat of summer, it comes at a cost: Venice's only hotels with pools are the high-end Cipriani and San Clemente Palace, both located on outer islands. Hotels on the Lido provide beach access, but they put you a fair distance (about a half-hour boat ride) from the heart of the city. The Hotel Des Bains is right on the water and has a parklike area for children.