The Biennale, an Arts Feast

The Biennale, an Arts Feast

A Venice institution, the Biennale (as the name suggests) started as an art festival held every two years, but during the century-plus of its existence it's outgrown the name, becoming one of the world's major interdisciplinary art expositions. "Biennale" now refers to the group that coordinates festivals of art, film, music, dance, theater, and architecture. For information on all events, contact La Biennale di Venezia (Ca' Giustinian, San Marco 1364/a. 041/5218711. 041/5227539. www.labiennale.org).

The Biennale dell'Arte was originated in 1894 and, except for World War interruptions, has taken place every two years since. In 1910 Klimt and Renoir had their own exhibition rooms, while Picasso was removed from the Spanish salon over concern his paintings were too shocking. Picasso's work was finally shown in 1948, the same year Peggy Guggenheim brought her collection to Venice at the Biennale's invitation.

The Biennale dell'Arte currently takes place from mid-June to early November in odd-numbered years. The Giardini della Biennale, located in the Castello sestiere, was developed specifically for the event. In this parklike setting overlooking the lagoon, 30 countries have permanent pavilions to exhibit works by their native artists. In the neighboring Arsenale's Corderie, a long, beautiful building otherwise off-limits to visitors, works by artists from smaller nations, as well as some more avant-garde installations, are shown. Numerous palaces, warehouses, and churches all over town also hold exhibits, often allowing you to visit buildings not normally open to the public.

The Biennale del Cinema (also known as the Mostra Internazionale del Cinema, or Venice Film Festival) was first held in 1932 and soon turned into an annual event. Films are shown in several theaters at the Palazzo del Cinema (Lungomare Guglielmo Marconi 90, The Lido. 041/2726511. [f24]Lido Casinò or S.M. Elizabetta), a low, boxy structure that's closed most of the year but comes to life in August with fresh paint, bright lights, movie stars, and thousands of fans. Ten days of 9 AM to 2 AM screenings include films vying for awards as well as retrospectives and debuts of mainstream releases. Films are shown in their original language, with subtitles in Italian and English. Advance tickets are recommended for the most eagerly awaited films (the tourist office has details). The night after films play the Palazzo del Cinema, they're shown at Campo San Polo's open-air cinema and at the Giorgione Movie d'essai. San Polo screens the winner of the Leone d'Oro (Golden Lion) prize the night following the awards ceremony.

Since its launch in 1930, the Biennale Musica has attracted world-famous composers and performers. Igor Stravinsky premiered his Rake's Progress during the 1951 festival, and four years later it was George Gershwin's turn with Porgy and Bess. The annual event stretches over several months, with performances in some of the city's smaller venues.

Scheduling is similar for the newest addition to the cultural family, Biennale Danza, as well as the Biennale Teatro, both of which stage some performances in the city's campi. The Theatro Verde, an outdoor amphitheater on the island of San Giorgio, was restored for Biennale use, and can't beat the Venetian lagoon as a backdrop. The least established of the Biennale events, the Biennale of Architecture, began in 1980 but has yet to develop a regular schedule.